By
Train -- The 112km (69-mile) train from Cusco to Machu
Picchu is a truly spectacular journey. It zigzags up
Huayna Picchu and then through lush valleys hugging
the Río Urubamba, with views of snowcapped Andes
peaks in the distance. There are three tourist trains
from Cusco to Machu Picchu, taking less than 4 hours:
the Backpacker, the slowest and least expensive ($60
round-trip; $42 one-way); the Vistadome, the faster
first-class service ($89 round-trip; $60 one-way); and
the top-of-the-line, newly inaugurated luxury line Hiram
Bingham, named after the discoverer of Machu Picchu
($417 round-trip only, including 2 meals, cocktails,
and a guided tour at the ruins).
The
tourist trains, all of which now belong to Orient-Express/PeruRail,
depart from Cusco's Estación San Pedro on Calle
Cascaparo; it's open Monday through Friday from 5am
to 3pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 5am to 12:30pm.
Hiram Bingham trains depart from Estación Poroy,
a 15-minute drive from Cusco, 6 days a week in high
season (Apr-Oct) and 4 days a week in low season (Nov-Mar).
Tickets for trains can also be purchased at Estación
Huanchac on Avenida Pachacutec; it's open Monday through
Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday
from 8:30am to 12:30pm. The Backpacker departs Cusco
at 6:15am and arrives in Aguas Calientes at 10:10am;
the Vistadome leaves at 6am and arrives at 9:40am; and
the Hiram Bingham sets out at 9am and arrives at 12:30pm.
Tip: For the best views on the way to Machu Picchu,
sit on the left side of the train.
Travelers
already based in the Urubamba Valley can go to Machu
Picchu by the Sacred Valley Railway. The journey takes
2 hours and 20 minutes from Urubamba, and about 90 minutes
from Ollantaytambo. Vistadome service originates in
Urubamba (departing at 6am) and Ollantaytambo (departing
at 7:05am, 10:30am, and 2:55pm); Backpacker service
originates in Ollantaytambo (departing at 9:25am). Returning
to Ollanta, Vistadome trains leave at 8:35am, noon,
and 4:45pm; the Backpacker train departs Machu Picchu
Pueblo at 5pm. The trip costs $69 in Vistadome class
($49 one-way) and $48 in Backpacker round-trip (one-way
service not available).
Train
schedules change frequently, so check www.perurail.com
or the tourist information office in Cusco before purchasing
train tickets. It's wise to make your reservation at
least a day (or more) in advance, especially in high
season. For the luxury Hiram Bingham service, reservations
several weeks or more in advance are recommended.
Estación
Machu Picchu Pueblo, the new train station in Aguas
Calientes, is on the river side of the tracks, just
beyond the market stalls of Avenida Imperio de los Incas.
Porters from Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel and other inns
greet the trains upon arrival each morning.
Train
Schedules to Machu Picchu -- Train schedules have changed
with alarming frequency in the past few years, according
to season and, it seems, the whims of some scheduler.
It would be smart to verify hours and fares before you
go at your hotel (if you're staying in one of the better
ones with good service and informed personnel), the
Tourist Information Office in Cusco, or on the PeruRail
website (www.perurail.com).
By
Bus -- You can't travel from Cusco to Machu Picchu by
bus, but unless you walk the Inca Trail -- or ascend
the slope to the ruins from the town of Aguas Calientes
by foot -- you will have to take one of the frequent
shuttle buses that leave from down by the railroad tracks.
The buses wend their way up the mountain, performing
exaggerated switchbacks for 15 minutes before suddenly
depositing passengers at the entrance to the ruins.
Cost is $9 round-trip. There's no need to reserve in
advance; just purchase your ticket at the little booth
in front of the lineup of buses, at the bottom of the
market stalls. Buses begin running at 6:30am and come
down all day, with the last one descending at dusk.
Some people choose to purchase a one-way ticket up and
walk down (30-45 min.) to Aguas Calientes.
By
Foot -- The celebrated Inca Trail (Camino del Inca,
or Camino Real) is almost as famous as the ruins themselves,
and the trek is rightly viewed as an attraction in itself
rather than merely a means of getting to Machu Picchu
under your own power. There are two principal treks:
one that takes 4 days (43km/26 miles) and another shorter
and less demanding route that lasts just 2 days. The
trails begin outside Ollantaytambo (at Km 82 of the
Cusco-Machu Picchu railroad track); you can return to
Cusco or Ollantaytambo by train.
For
those who take the train to Aguas Calientes but still
want a small dose of what it's like to walk to Machu
Picchu, it's straightforward (if a little difficult)
to walk up to the ruins from town up a steep path that
cuts across the switchback road. It takes a little over
an hour to make it up and about 45 minutes to descend.
Because you'll probably want to save your energy for
exploring Machu Picchu, if you are fit and want to walk
at least one way, I recommend walking down from the
ruins (which is still pretty strenuous on one's knees).