READ IT
HERE
ADDRESSES These are frequently written
with just the street name and number: for
example, Pizarro 135. Officially, though,
they're usually prefixed by Calle, Jirón (street)
or Avenida. The first digit of any street number
(or sometimes the first two digits) represents
the block number within the street as a whole.
Note too that many of the major streets in Lima
and also in Cusco have two names - in Lima this
is a relic of the military governments of the
1970s, in Cusco it's more to do with a revival
of the Inca past.
ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES Peru has many
adventure activites to offer, and we've listed
them throughout the guide where relevant. For
general information of mountaineering and winter
sports contact: Federacion Peruana de Andinismo
y Desportes de Invierno, block 3 of Jose Diaz,
Lima Centro (tel 01/424-0063); Casa de Guias,
Parque Ginebra 28-G; Club de Montañismo Américo
Tordoya, Tarapacá 384, Lima (tel 01/460-6101 or
431-1305); Club de Andinismo de la Univeridad de
Lima, Avenida Javier Prado este, Lima 33 (tel
01/437-6767, extension 30775); Club Andino
Peruano, Avenida Dos de Mayo 1545, Oficina 216,
Lima 27.
ARTESANIA Traditional craft goods from
most regions of Peru can be found in markets and
shops in Lima. Woollen and alpaca products,
though, are usually cheaper and often better
quality in the sierra - particularly in Cusco,
Juliaca and Puno; carved gourds are imported
from around Huancayo, while the best places to
buy ceramic replicas are Trujillo, Huaraz, Ica
and Nasca. Jungle crafts are best from Pucallpa
and Iquitos.
BARGAINING In markets and with taxi
drivers (before getting in), you are generally
expected to bargain. It's also sometimes
possible to haggle over the price of hotel rooms,
especially if you're travelling in a group. Food
and shop prices, however, tend to be fixed.
CUSTOMS Regulations stipulate that no
items of archeological or historical value or
interest may be removed from the country. Many
of the jungle craft goods which incorporate
feathers, skins or shells of rare Amazonian
animals are also banned for export - it's best
not to buy these if you are in any doubt about
their scarcity. If you do try to export anything
of archeological or biological value, and get
caught, you'll have the goods confiscated at the
very least, and may find yourself in a Peruvian
court.
DIVING AND FISHING For information on
diving and fishing, contact the Federacion
Peruana de Caza Submarina y Actividades
Acuaticas, Estadio Nacional, Lima Centro (tel
01/433-6626, didimar@ mail.cosapidata.com.pe).
ELECTRIC CURRENT 220 volt/60 cycles AC is
the standard all over Peru, except in Arequipa
where it is 220 volt/50 cycles. In some of
Lima's better hotels you may also find 110 volt
sockets to use with standard electric shavers.
Don't count on any Peruvian supply being one
hundred percent reliable and, particularly in
cheap hostals and hotels be very wary of the
wiring, especially in electric shower fittings.
FOOTBALL Peru's major sport is football
and you'll find men and boys playing it in the
streets of every city, town and settlement in
the country down to the remotest of jungle
outposts. The big teams are Cristal, Alianza and
El U (for Universitario) in Lima and Ciencianco
from Cusco. The "Classic" game is between
Alianza, the poor man's team from La Victoria
suburb of Lima, and El U, generally supported by
the middle class. In recent years the sport has
taken a European turn in the unruly and violent
nature of its fans. This is particularly true of
Lima where, in late 1995, the "Classic" had to
be stopped because of stones thrown at the
players by supporters. Known as choligans (a
mixture of the English "hooligan" and the
Peruvian cholo, which means dark-skinned
Quechua-blooded Peruvian), these unruly
supporters have taken to painting their faces,
attacking the opposing fans and causing major
riots outside the football grounds.
GAY LIFE Homosexuality is pretty much
kept underground in what is still a very macho
society, though in recent years Lima has seen a
liberating advance and transvestites can walk
the streets in relative freedom from abuse.
However, there is little or no organized gay
life. The Peruvian Homosexual and Lesbian
Movement can be contacted at Calle Mariscal
Miller 828, in Jesus Maria (tel 433-5519).
INSULTS Travellers sometimes suffer
insults from Peruvians who begrudge the apparent
relative wealth and freedom of tourists.
Remember, however, that the terms "gringo" or
"mister" are not generally meant in an offensive
way in Peru.
LANGUAGE LESSONS You can learn Peruvian
Spanish all over Peru, but the best range of
schools are in Cusco, Arequipa and Huancayo.
Check the relevant sections throughout the guide.
LAUNDRY Most basic hotels have communal
washrooms where you can do your washing; failing
this, labour is so cheap that it's no real
expense to get your clothes washed by the hotel
or in a lavandería (laundry). Things tend to
disappear from public washing lines so be
careful where you leave clothes drying.
NATURAL DISASTERS Peru has more than its
fair share of avalanches, landslides and
earthquakes - and there's not a lot you can do
about any of them. If you're naturally cautious
you might want to register on arrival with your
embassy; they like this, and it does help them
in the event of a major quake (or an escalation
of terrorist activity). Landslides - huaycos -
devastate the roads and rail lines every rainy
season, though alternative routes are usually
found surprisingly quickly.
PHOTOGRAPHY The light in Peru is very
bright, with a strong contrast between shade and
sun. This can produce a nice effect and
generally speaking it's easy to take good
pictures. One of the more complex problems is
how to take photos of people without upsetting
them. You should always talk to a prospective
subject first, and ask if s/he minds if you take
a quick photo ( una fotito, por favor - "a
little photo please"); most people react
favourably to this approach even if all the
communication is in sign language. Slide film is
expensive to buy, and not readily available
outside of the main cities; colour Kodac and
Fuji films are widely available, but black and
white film is rare. If you can bear the suspense
it's best to save getting films developed until
you're home - you'll probably get better results.
Pre-paid slide films can't be developed in Peru.
PUNCTUALITY Whilst buses, trains or
planes won't wait a minute beyond their
scheduled departure time, people almost expect
friends to be an hour or more late for an
appointment (don't arrange to meet a Peruvian on
the street - make it a bar or café). Peruvians
stipulate that an engagement is a la hora
inglesa ("by English time") if they genuinely
want people to arrive on time, or, more
realistically, within half an hour of the time
they fix.
TIME Peru keeps the same hours as Eastern
Standard Time, which is (generally) five hours
behind GMT.
WORK Your only real chance of earning
money in Peru is teaching English in Lima, or
with luck in Arequipa or Cusco. Given the state
of the economy there's little prospect in other
fields, though in the more remote parts of the
country it may sometimes be possible to find
board and lodging in return for a little
building work or general labouring. This is
simply a question of keeping your eyes open and
making personal contacts. There is an enormous
amount of bureaucracy involved if you want to
work (or live) officially in Peru. For biology,
geography or environmental science graduates
there's a chance of free board and lodging and
maybe a small salary if you're willing to work
very hard for at least three months as a tour
guide in a jungle lodge, under the Resident
Naturalist schemes. Several lodges along the Río
Tambopata offer such schemes and other research
opportunities. For more details, write to the
lodges directly; for independent advice contact
the Tambopata Reserve Society (TreeS), 64
Belsize Park, London, NW3 4EH, UK. Arrangements
need to be made at least six months in advance.
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