The dangers
of pickpockets and robberies cannot be over
emphasized, though the situation does seem to
have improved since the dark days of the late
1980s. Without encouraging a permanent state of
paranoia and constant watchfulness in busy
public situations, common sense and general
alertness are recommended. The South American
Explorers' Club can give you the low-down on the
latest thieving practices, some of which have
developed over the years into quite elaborate
and skilful techniques.
Generally speaking, thieves ( ladrones) work in
teams of often smartly dressed young men and
women, in crowded markets, bus depots and train
stations, targeting anyone who looks like
they've got money. One of them will distract
your attention (an old woman falling over in
front of you or someone splattering an ice cream
down your jacket) while another picks your
pocket, cuts open your bag with a razor, or
simply runs off with it. Peruvians and tourists
alike have even had earrings ripped out on the
street. Bank ATMs are a target for muggers in
cities, particularly after dark, so visit them
with a friend or two during daylight hours or
make sure there's a policeman within visual
contact. Armed mugging does happen in Lima, and
it's best not to resist, and "strangle mugging"
has been a bit of a problem in Cusco and
Arequipa, usually involving night attacks when
the perpetrator tries to make the victim
unconscious by strangulation. Again, be careful
not to walk down badly lit streets alone in the
early hours. Theft from cars and even more so,
theft of car parts, is rife in Peru,
particularly in Lima. Also, in some of the more
popular hotels in the large cities, especially
Lima, bandits masquerading as policemen break
into rooms and steal the guests' most valuable
possessions while holding the hotel staff at gun
point. Objects left on restaurant floors in busy
parts of town, or in unlocked hotel rooms, are
obviously liable to take a walk.
You'd need to spend the whole time visibly
guarding your luggage to be sure of keeping hold
of it; even then, though, a determined team of
thieves will stand a chance. However, a few
simple precautions can make life a lot easier.
The most important is to keep your ticket,
passport (and tourist card), money and
traveller's cheques on your person at all times
(under your pillow while sleeping and on your
person when washing in communal hotel bathrooms).
Money belts are a good idea for traveller's
cheques and tickets, or a holder for your
passport and money can be hung either under a
shirt, or from a belt under trousers or skirts.
A false pocket , secured by safety pins to the
inside of trousers, skirts or shirts also makes
it harder for thieves or muggers to find your
cash reserve (and is easy to transfer between
items of clothing). Some people go as far as
lining their bags with chicken wire (called maya
in Peru) to make them knife-proof, and wrapping
wire around camera straps for the same reason (putting
their necks in danger to save their cameras).
The only certain course is to insure your gear
and cash before you go. Take refundable
traveller's cheques, register your passport at
your embassy in Lima on arrival (this doesn't
take long and can save days should you lose
yours), and keep your eyes open at all times. If
you do get ripped off, report it to the tourist
police in larger towns, or the local police in
more remote places, and ask them for a certified
denuncia - this can take a couple of days. Many
insurance companies will require a copy of the
police denuncia in order to reimburse you,
though some only require proof of your
whereabouts at the time of the incident (for
example a hotel bill or a tour company letter or
report). Check with your insurance company
before leaving for Peru as to what their
requirements are.
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